
Bill’s
Latin America Travels II
Last
month we chronicled Bill’s trip to Costa
Rica and Nicaragua. This month we continue with the
Guatemala and Mexico producer visits.
Our
group doubled in size when we gathered at the Dos Lunas
Pension in Guatemala City. Monika, Scott, Helen and I were
joined by Kelli of Sentient Bean, Kate of Idyll
Foundation, Ethan and Kristina — both representing
Larry’s Beans. Our expanded group began with a morning
visit to Orocafe, a green coffee processing plant that
cleans and exports the coffee from our Guatemala trading
partner, Apecaform. We toured the warehouse, cupped our
coffee and then headed out of the city — next stop Lake
Atitlan.
Lake Atitlan is certainly one of the prettiest
places on this earth. Surrounded by three volcanoes —
with lake surface at over 5,000 feet in altitude — it is
also one of the best places to grow coffee. We visited in
search of a second Guatemala partner cooperative. Our friend
Jeronimo of Manos Campesinas traveled with us across the
lake to the quiet town of San Pedro for our first
exploratory meetings with ADEPMA. First, we hiked to the
edge of town for a tour of their processing mill and
drying patios. Mill manager Freddy gave us a delightful
tour of the impressive, environmentally-friendly facility.
Then we caught an afternoon boat over to Santiago to meet
the leaders of ADEPMA, learn more about their
organizational structure, and explain to them how
Cooperative Coffees operates. We concluded this visit with
the hope that next year our green coffee cooperative would
buy their first fair trade, organic certified export
container of coffee.
After
a leisurely Sunday morning in San Pedro — which included
a swim in the refreshing clear water — we headed back
over to Panajachel in order to catch a bus to Mexico.
Our agenda in Chiapas began with a
two day visit with the Coop Mut Vitz, our long-time
trading partner located in the autonomous region just
north of San Cristobal de las Casas. Roman, the newly
elected president of the cooperative, met us at the
cooperative’s office in La Estacion and led us on a
half-day hike through the area. We started by visiting his
father’s plot of coffee — sharing that he remembered
the shade trees and coffee trees being planted when he was
ten. We then, through a series of sophisticated whistles,
found Porfirio Gonzalez Ruiz, another member of Mut Vitz
who was picking coffee a bit further down the
mountainside. Porfirio was immediately bombarded with the
clicking of cameras and questions. He explained the
picking and drying process — pointing out that he must
wait until the coffee cherry turns red before picking —
and that he had to lug several hundred pounds of coffee
back up the mountain at the end of the day!
On day two, the leaders of Mut Vitz
gathered at the office for discussions concerning the
financing and shipment of this year’s crop. First, the
cooperative leaders presented themselves and updated our
group concerning changes within their organization. Next
we presented the members and organizational structure of
Cooperative Coffees. Then, we began several hours of
negotiations and discussions concerning the shipment of 4
containers of coffee during the upcoming export season.
Mut Vitz has never sold this much coffee to one buyer so
most conversation concerned a delivery schedule that
worked for both parties. This is the essence of fair trade
— amiable negotiations and agreements that benefit all
involved. Mut Vitz would love to sell all of the coffee
immediately — as importers we must stagger the
deliveries in order to manage inventory wisely and better
fit the coffee roasters needs. Through these discussions,
often conducted in three languages, we settled on a
delivery and payment schedule that suited everyone.
Our
next visit in Chiapas was with Maya Vinic, a cooperative
born in the aftermath of the December 22, 1997 massacre of
45 members of the larger civil organization Las Abejas, to
which the Maya Vinic members also belong. Last year we
purchased the first coffee exported by this budding
cooperative — and our purpose for the visit was to
affirm our continued support of their work and to sign a
contract for this year’s harvest. After morning meetings
over a bowl of chicken soup, we were surprised with the
proposal to visit one of their communities, Yashgemel, to
see how their coffee is being produced… ending the day
with yet another delicious bowl of chicken soup!
Our
last — but certainly not least — bit of coffee
business required a return to Guatemala via the overnight
bus from San Cristobal to Tapachula — then a short van
ride to Malacatan in Guatemala. Here we met with the
leaders of APECAFORM to confirm our ongoing partnership,
discuss delivery schedules and listen to their future
plans for the cooperative. Our meeting was held in their
simple, wooden warehouse — where the cooperative hopes
to build a larger storage facility in the near future. We
concluded the meeting by walking back to town and having a
great lunch with the farmers— pizza of all things — in
a surprisingly good restaurant overlooking the town
square.
The trip concluded with two days of R&R
in the historic town of Antigua, the former capital of
Guatemala. We overdosed on liquados (a blended fruit
drink), pancakes, sushi and other creature comforts while
contemplating our two intense weeks of travel and
meetings. Each time I visit with our farmer-partners, the
return home is more difficult. While it is great to see
family and friends again, the shock of interstate
highways, fast food alleys, strip malls and our frantic
way of life is such a stark contrast to the slow pace of
the coffee countryside. Signing off with a smile and a
sigh, Bill
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