
by
Kopi (Bahasa Indonesian word for coffee), as told to Nate
Wayman
So,
you drink a dark liquid made by infusing hot water with a
ground version of me but you don’t know much about how I
came to be? Well, that’s no good! Let me tell you a
story about my life so you can appreciate me more fully.
Some
folks say I was discovered by a goat herder named Kaldi
sometime in the sixth century in Ethiopia, when he noticed
his goats were dancing around after eating the cherries
from a particular type of bush. Whether you believe that
version of my origins or not, I do grow inside of a cherry
on a bush, and I imagine if goats ate enough of me, they
would begin to dance!
Where
do I come from these days? I’m pretty fussy about where
I want to grow up, so I stick to hilly areas
between the Tropics of Cancer and Capricorn that are warm
during the day and cool at night. I also think
I taste much better (and equally importantly, do not
require pesticides or artificial fertilizers) when I am
grown in the shade of other trees rather than in huge
sunny tracts of land. Each of my bushes has big beautiful
leaves and can keep producing for up to 30 years!
You
probably know that coffee can be classified into two
types: robusta (a hardier species, not known for
its finer taste) and arabica (a
tastier species used almost exclusively by specialty
roasters). You may not know that
the bushes, or "trees", of these two types can
look pretty different. Robusta bushes tend to be higher,
sometimes reaching 32 feet, and the cherries are usually
round. Arabica bushes, on the other hand, are usually less
than 20 feet in height and bear oval cherries.
Now
why do I keep referring to cherries on the coffee bushes,
when we all know I am a bean? Good question. As you can
see in this picture the fruit of a coffee bush is indeed a cherry, and
they turn red when ripe and ready to be picked. But where am I? The seed of the
coffee cherry, as you may have guessed by now, consists of
a pair of coffee beans — me and my sister! But, we’re
not quite ready for brewing. I heard that you read about the
roasting process in an earlier issue of Fair
Grounds, but we’re not even ready for that stage
yet. So what’s next? Read on my caffeinated beverage
friends!
It’s
now fall or winter, the rainy season is over, I’ve
finished growing into my full size inside the coffee
cherry, and my outer skin is turning red. My owner comes
along and picks all of us off the branch — by hand! —
and puts us into a bag. Taking us to the processing area,
there are then a few choices for me. I can be dry or
wet processed (or even semi-wet, but there are only so
many details I can give you before you cry out,
"Enough already!"). If dry, it’s pretty simple
– they throw all of us out over a concrete or other
large hard surface, rake us around quite a bit and let the
sun dry us out until our hulls are ready to fall off
(usually a few weeks).
In the wet process, they put all of us
into a big machine that pushes us against screens with
holes just large enough for the beans inside of the cherry
casing. Pressure is applied so the cherry fruit is broken
open and we are free to go through the screens. Then we’re put into a
fermentation tank for a little while to remove the excess
fruit sticking to us and put out to dry (which should only
take a week at this point).
And
now I’m ready, right? No, not quite. I’ve still got a
layer of skin surrounding both of us beans, which needs to
be removed during the hulling stage. Then we’re graded
and sorted, to make sure that only the best quality
beans make it into the hands of roasters like Café
Campesino. Since I’m one of the best ones (but of
course!), I make it into the bag with the other excellent
green beans and head on out to be roasted.
Oh,
I almost forgot to mention one of the funniest parts of
the process — well, funny to watch anyway! They call it cupping,
and it consists of these coffee experts coming in,
roasting up little batches of us green beans and brewing
us directly in cups of hot water. Then they really noisily
slurp us into their mouths, get this really serious and
pensive look on their faces and spit us out! Yup,
pretty funny to watch. I know you appreciate their work,
however, as that helps them determine which of us are good
enough to make it into your cup of coffee, and which will
end up in, shall we say, a lesser cup of joe.
So
what do you think? Now that you know how much work it
takes for me to arrive in your kitchen, do you love me all
the more? I sure hope so! I know my farmer appreciated you
buying fair trade coffee so he could have a livable wage
instead of working for a big estate or selling to a coyote
reseller for a cheap price. I hope you enjoy the perk I
bring to your life, and thanks for reading about me this
month!
-----
Nate
Wayman is a caffeine addict who's currently studying
non-profit management in southern Vermont, and can be
reached at nate@ifairtrade.net.
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